BROWN PATCHES OR STRIPS
 

WATER DEPRIVATION
Check your sprinkler heads.  They must pop above grass level.  Be certain that no tall grass is obstructing the spray.  Check that spray patterns are reaching the edges of sidewalks and driveways and are overlapping.
Run this test:  After you flood the dry areas by hand, place teacups in both the brown area and lush, green areas.  Now, run your irrigation system and check the volume of water being received by both areas.
Solution:  Replace or adjust sprinkler heads.  Hand watering these spots is a stop gap measure until the system is correct.
Helpful Hint:  Before you order sod, test your irrigation system, when the ground is dry.  This allows you to easily spot areas that remain dry or pool up.  Place several teacups throughout to compare water volume.


TALL GRASS
OBSTRUCTING COVERAGE

 


POOR GROUND CONTACT
The ground underneath the sod has settled, leaving air pockets in between.
Solution:  Determine that this is the cause by eliminating the possibility of water deprivation (use the teacup test).  Pull back the new sod; fill the area with clean soil.  Hand water the area thoroughly.  Be certain you ensure contact between sod and soil.
Helpful Hint:  Use a roller in the final stage of soil preparation and especially light roll the sod after installation.

INSTALLATION PROBLEM
Solution:  Be certain that sod edges are butted up firmly to driveway, sidewalks and especially each other.  Airspace between these can cause dry edges.  If your sod is the edge, adjoining a flowerbed, be certain the sod edges have soil pushed up to them, and remain watered.

Helpful Hint:  Always begin your installation along the edge (sidewalk, driveway, etc.).  See "Installation & Maintenance."

COMPACTION
The ground underneath is hard, and water is "sheeting" away, rather than soaking in.
Solution:  Pull the piece of sod back, and aerate the area by poking holes with a long handled screwdriver.  Be certain to ensure contact between sod and soil.  Note:  on inclined property, where rapid runoff is a problem, more frequent waterings of shorter duration may be required.


SPRAY PATTERN MISSING
EDGES OF SIDEWALK


SPRAY PATTERNS ARE
NOT OVERLAPPING


 

 

 

 
 

  PET URINATION (your pet or your neighbor's)
IF YOU HAVE PETS YOU WILL HAVE YELLOW SPOTS.  It makes no difference if the pet is male or female.

ACIDIC DRIP
Some trees and shrubs (especially conifer, eucalyptus and California pepper) will cause yellowing or non-growth under the drip line.
Helpful Hint:  Do not expect lawn to thrive under most trees.  There is a good chance that the lawn will not receive enough sunlight anyway.  Remember, a neighbor's tree can drip and block sunlight, if it closely adjoins your property.

POOL or SPA SPLASH
Chlorine and chemicals will yellow your lawn.  There is no remedy.
 

  It is very rare that fungus occurs in new lawns.  The primary causes of fungus are:  thatch (old lawn debris that has worked its way to soil level), clippings left on the surface, and night watering.  
We see more problems with the misdiagnosis of fungus than anything else.  To properly treat a real problem, the lawn must dry out for 24-48 hours, and THIS WILL KILL A NEW LAWN!
Fungus is yellow, circular and spreads outward in an irregular pattern.  Do not confuse it with pet spotting, spills, etc.  If certified nursery personnel have verified it to be so, treat accordingly.  For treatment of fungus we recommend "Monterey Aliette." 
Again, use caution!  Allowing a new lawn to dry out will kill it.  Fungicide use should be avoided until the lawn is at least one month old.
 

SOD ASSISTANCE HOT LINE
1-800-553-8328  (mon-fri 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.)

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